Spanish agriculture faces one of the most complex realities in its recent history. The low prices at originthe pressure from intermediaries and the increasing difficulty in making the business profitable make the generational change that would ensure the continuity of agriculture, a fundamental pillar of the economy and rural identity, impossible.
Although there are always exceptions that restore hope to the field rejuvenationas is the case of the Ramírez, three generations of winegrowers in La Rioja who reflect the challenge they face to continue the family legacy.
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Grandfather, son and grandson; Harvest workers from San Vicente de la Sonsierra, in La Rioja, are three generations of winegrowers who, in the middle of the agricultural campaign, have recounted the effort and difficulties they face every day to maintain their passion for this profession and the respect they have for the vineyard, as they have declared in an interview in the program ‘The Lantern’ at COPE.
“First we washed our feet, we went into the lake and started stepping. Two of us went in, one stepped and the other threw the grapes up, making a wall,” recalled with nostalgia Ángel Ramírez who, at 83 years old, remembers what work was like in the old days when machinery was scarce.
“I want to have my vineyards and make my own wines”
Julen Calvo Ramírez, 24 years old, is Ángel’s grandson, represents the third generation and the hopes of continuing with the vineyard in the future. He works as a second winemaker in a winery, but dreams of having his own.
“My uncles do have vineyards, but my parents don’t, and what’s going to be my turn is to build what I would like to have: my vineyards and make my own wines,” he says. For him, his grandfather has been his inspiration, where he has found a guide to consolidate his path as a farmer: “he is a very brave person who never falls behind.”
Profitability does not guarantee its persistence
The economic reality collides with the expectations of young people who are committed to subsistence in the countryside, although fewer and fewer choose this path. David Ramírez (45), Julen’s uncle, is blunt: “for my nephew, for example, my children to live off agriculture, it is going to be impossible. We are entering a loop and we do not realize that this is ending.”
“We cannot continually work at a loss because no one works at a loss, that is, it is impossible,” adds David. This year the harvest in La Rioja is expected to be of good quality. However, mildew has complicated the year: “with expenses that have gotten out of hand and incredible effort,” he expresses regretfully. This adds to the helplessness of the wineries: “they continue to turn their backs on us,” since they will not be paid what their work is worth, with prices that barely reach 1 euro per kilo of grapes.
Despite the harsh outlook, the Ramírez family maintains their spirits to harvest an exceptional grape in this Rioja harvest campaign.